7 Secrets of Art Nouveau Silverware: Makers, Patterns & Why I’m Obsessed
Let’s be honest for a second. Most silverware is boring. It sits in a drawer, gathering tarnish, waiting for a holiday dinner that may or may not happen, looking stiff, formal, and frankly, a bit uptight. But then, there’s Art Nouveau.
I remember the first time I held a genuine Unger Brothers spoon from around 1900. It didn’t feel like a utensil; it felt like holding a solidified piece of smoke. The handle wasn’t a straight line; it was a woman’s hair swirling around a poppy flower, drifting into waves that felt sensuous against the thumb. It was rebellious. It was dramatic. It was everything the Victorian era tried to suppress, exploding onto the dinner table in sterling silver form.
If you are reading this, you probably have a piece of "funny looking" flowy silver you inherited, or you’re an avid hunter scouring estate sales for that tell-tale "whiplash" curve. Welcome to the club. We are about to dive deep—and I mean deep—into the world of Art Nouveau silverware. We aren’t just listing names; we are going to look at the soul of these pieces, how to spot the fakes, why Gorham’s Martelé is the holy grail, and how to keep from ruining your treasure with the wrong polish.
Grab a cup of tea (stirred with a silver spoon, obviously), and let’s unravel the mystery of the most romantic era in metalworking history.
Expert Note: The "Melting" Rule
Before we start, remember this: Art Nouveau is defined by movement. If the pattern looks like it’s "melting" or growing organically like a vine, you’re on the right track. If it’s geometric and symmetrical, you’ve likely stumbled into Art Deco. Knowing the difference can save you hundreds of dollars.
1. The "Whiplash": Defining the Art Nouveau Aesthetic
To understand the silverware, you have to understand the mood of the late 1890s. The Victorian era was ending. It had been heavy, dark, cluttered, and obsessed with reviving old styles like Gothic or Rococo. Then, almost like a collective sigh of relief, artists turned to nature. But not the polite nature of a manicured garden—they turned to the wild, tangled, slightly dangerous nature.
Art Nouveau (roughly 1890–1910) is characterized by the "whiplash line." Imagine a vine snapping back or a wave cresting. It’s dynamic. In silverware, this manifested in handles that didn’t just hold decoration; the decoration was the handle.
The Holy Trinity of Motifs
If you are staring at a fork at an antique show, look for these three things:
- The Dreamy Woman: Often referred to as "The Maiden." She usually has her eyes closed or half-lidded, looking ecstatic or asleep. Her hair is the most important part—it swirls around the utensil, turning into water or vines.
- Narcotic Florals: You won’t see many daisies. You will see poppies (opium), morning glories, irises, and lilies. These flowers represented sleep, dreams, and sensuality.
- Fantasy Creatures: Dragonflies, butterflies, and occasionally bats or serpents. It was a fascination with the "twilight" world.
I once found a belt buckle converted into a brooch (common in jewelry, but the motifs match the flatware) that featured a woman’s face emerging from smoke. That is the essence. It’s about metamorphosis.
2. The Titans of American Nouveau: Unger Bros, Alvin, and Gorham
While the French gave Art Nouveau its name, American silversmiths took it and ran with it, creating some of the most collectible silver on the planet today. If you find pieces by these makers, your heart rate should absolutely go up.
Unger Brothers: The Rockstars of Newark
Based in Newark, New Jersey, the Unger Brothers (active roughly 1872–1910, but their Nouveau peak was 1900–1907) are, in my opinion, the absolute kings of American Art Nouveau silver. Their designs were fearless. They pressed silver so thin and with such high relief (repoussé) that the details pop out at you.
Look for their mark: A logo featuring an intertwined "UB" with an arrow passing through it, often accompanied by "925 FINE" or "STERLING."
Their famous patterns often didn't have names in the catalog, just numbers, but collectors call them by descriptive names like "Love’s Dream" (a kissing couple) or "The Wave." I have seen a single Unger Bros match-safe sell for over $600 just because of the crispness of the maiden's face. They didn’t just make spoons; they made art you could eat with.
Gorham and the Legend of Martelé
Gorham is a massive name, known for standard patterns like Chantilly (which is arguably transitional). But their crowning achievement in this era was the Martelé line.
Martelé is French for "hammered." At the turn of the century, mass production was taking over. Gorham decided to go the opposite direction. They created a line that was entirely handmade. No machines. Just a silversmith and a hammer. Because they were hand-raised, the silver is softer, purer (often higher than sterling standard, around .950 or .9584), and has a luscious, glowing surface texture.
Why you should care: If you find a piece marked "Martelé" with the Gorham eagle/anchor/G, do not let it go. It is museum quality. A Martelé vase or tea set can fetch tens of thousands of dollars. Even a spoon is a treasure.
Alvin Manufacturing Company
Alvin was often seen as a competitor to Gorham and Unger. They produced the "Bridal Rose" pattern, which is iconic. It’s heavy, deeply carved, and features massive rose blooms that seem to spill off the handle. Alvin’s "Raphael" is another stunner—it’s quintessential Art Nouveau with swirling lilies. Collectors love Alvin because the weight of the silver is usually substantial. They didn’t skimp on the materials.
3. The European Connection: Liberty & Jensen
We can't talk about Art Nouveau Silverware without nodding to Europe, though the style manifested differently there. In Germany, it was Jugendstil (Youth Style). In Italy, Stile Liberty.
Liberty & Co (The Celtic Revival Twist)
In the UK, the "Cymric" line by Liberty & Co is the gold standard (or silver standard, really). Designed by Archibald Knox, these pieces blend Art Nouveau whiplash curves with Celtic knots and enameling. It’s a very specific look—less "flowery maiden" and more "ancient elven magic." If you spot turquoise or enamel cabochons inset into the silver, you are looking at something special.
Georg Jensen (The Early Years)
Georg Jensen is Danish, and while his later stuff defines Mid-Century Modern, his early work (1904–1915) is pure organic Nouveau. Look for the "Blossom" pattern. It has toad-like feet and magnolia buds. It’s weird, wonderful, and incredibly expensive. Jensen’s Nouveau is less about the "whiplash" and more about the fruitfulness of nature—plump berries, heavy blossoms, and hammer marks.
4. Iconic Patterns You Need to Know
If you are scouring eBay or an estate sale, memorize these names. These are the patterns that define the genre.
Lilly (Whiting)
The Vibe: Perhaps the most famous American Art Nouveau pattern. It features realistic lilies flowing down the handle.
Why it matters: It is heavy, complex, and highly sought after. Whiting was later bought by Gorham, but the original Whiting marks are prized.
Love's Dream (Unger Bros)
The Vibe: A literal face of a woman dreaming, surrounded by swirls. Sometimes called "The Kiss."
Why it matters: It is the epitome of the figural Nouveau style. Finding a clean piece where the nose hasn't been worn down is the challenge.
Violet (Wallace)
The Vibe: Deeply embossed bunches of violets.
Why it matters: A slightly more accessible pattern that still screams Nouveau. The depth of the stamping is key here.
Frontenac (International Silver)
The Vibe: Lilies again, but with a very distinct asymmetrical tip.
Why it matters: It’s elegant and often found in large sets. A great "starter" pattern for serious collectors.
Pro Tip: Many patterns from this era were monogrammed. In modern silver, monograms devalue the piece. In Art Nouveau silver, monograms are often part of the art. A swirling, interlocking script monogram was often designed specifically for the buyer and engraved by a master. Don’t shy away from monograms; embrace the history of the person who owned it.
5. Visual Guide: Infographic on Style Identification
It can be incredibly confusing to distinguish between late Victorian, Art Nouveau, and early Art Deco. They all blend into each other at the margins. I’ve designed this visual aid to help you spot the "tells" instantly.
Silverware Style Decoder
Stop guessing at the antique store.
"The Cluttered Garden"
- Shape: Rigid, symmetrical.
- Motifs: Ferns, distinct flowers, scrolls, heavy ornamentation.
- Vibe: Formal, stiff, "more is more."
- Key Word: Revival.
"The Melting Dream"
- Shape: Asymmetrical, fluid, "whiplash" curves.
- Motifs: Women’s hair, poppies, dragonflies, vines.
- Vibe: Sensual, mysterious, rebellious.
- Key Word: Flow.
"The Machine Age"
- Shape: Geometric, stepped, streamlined.
- Motifs: Sunbursts, zig-zags, speed lines.
- Vibe: Modern, industrial, fast.
- Key Word: Structure.
6. Valuation: Scrap vs. Collector Premium
This is the part where hearts break or bank accounts grow. Silver has two values: the melt value (the price of the raw metal) and the collector value.
For generic 1950s sterling, the value is often just the weight of the silver. But for Art Nouveau, do not ever sell for scrap weight.
A standard sterling teaspoon might weigh 20 grams. At today’s prices (approx. $0.80-$1.00 per gram), that spoon is worth maybe $16-20 in raw metal. But if that spoon is an Unger Bros "Love’s Dream" in good condition? It could sell for $100 to $150. That is a massive premium. The more intricate the design, the higher the premium.
Condition is King
Art Nouveau silver is high relief. That means the nose of the woman, the petals of the flower, and the wings of the dragonfly stick out. Over 120 years of polishing and use, these high points get worn down. This is called "pattern rub."
A piece with "crisp definition" (where you can see the eyelashes of the maiden) is worth exponentially more than a piece that looks like a smooth silver blob. When buying online, always ask for photos taken in raking light (light coming from the side) to show the depth of the detail.
7. Care and Feeding of Your Silver
I am going to say this once, and I need you to hear me: Step away from the chemical dip.
Those jars of liquid silver cleaner are the enemy of Art Nouveau. Why? Because the beauty of these patterns relies on "oxidation" (the dark tarnish) remaining in the deep crevices of the design. This contrast makes the silver pop. If you dip it, you strip all the shadow away, and the piece looks flat and lifeless. It can take years to naturally re-acquire that patina.
The Right Way to Clean
- Use a Foam or Cream: Brands like Wright’s Silver Cream or Twinkle are standard. They are mild abrasives.
- The Sponge Technique: Apply the cream, wash it off with warm water and a cellulose sponge.
- The Cloth: For a final shine, use a treated polishing cloth. Gently buff the high points (the nose, the petals) and leave the low points dark. This emphasizes the 3D effect of the silverware.
- Storage: Store in treated flannel cloth (silver cloth) to prevent tarnish. Do not use rubber bands; rubber contains sulfur and will eat right through the silver, leaving black scars that are impossible to remove.
Ready to hunt for treasure? Check these reliable resources:
8. Frequently Asked Questions (FAQ)
How do I know if my silverware is real silver or plated?
This is the #1 question. Look for the word "STERLING" or the number "925." In the UK, look for the Lion Passant symbol. If it says "EPNS," "A1," "Triple Plate," or "IS," it is silver plate (copper or brass dipped in silver). Plated items are decorative but hold very little monetary value compared to sterling.
Is it safe to eat off antique silver?
Yes, absolutely! Sterling silver is naturally antimicrobial. However, avoid using it with eggs, mayonnaise, or salad dressing (acids and sulfur cause rapid black tarnishing). Also, never put it in the dishwasher. The heat and harsh detergents will turn the silver grey and can detach knife handles.
Why are the knife blades rusted?
In the Art Nouveau era, stainless steel hadn't been invented yet (or wasn't widely used). The blades were carbon steel, which rusts. It is very common to find silver handles with rusted blades. You can have these blades replaced by a professional silversmith with modern stainless steel blades, which restores the utility of the knife.
What is the most expensive Art Nouveau pattern?
It's subjective, but Tiffany & Co.’s "Lap Over Edge" (custom designed) or Gorham’s "Martelé" line consistently fetch the highest prices. For standard production patterns, Unger Bros figural pieces (like the "Evangeline" or "Love’s Dream") command high premiums.
Can I fix a dent in a silver handle?
Maybe, but don't do it yourself. Silver is soft metal. A professional silversmith can often push dents out from the inside or smooth them, but bad repairs destroy value. If the piece is rare, consult a pro. If it’s a common piece, the cost of repair might exceed the value.
What are "hollow handle" knives?
Most silver knives have a hollow silver handle filled with cement/pitch to hold the steel blade tang. If you hear a rattle, the cement has dried out. This is a common issue and fixable by a silversmith (called "resetting"). Do not soak these in hot water!
Where is the best place to sell Art Nouveau silver?
Avoid "We Buy Gold & Silver" storefronts; they usually only pay scrap value. For named Art Nouveau patterns (Unger, Tiffany, Gorham), look for specialized silver dealers (like Replacements Ltd. or local antique dealers) or list on platforms like eBay where collectors congregate. High-end auction houses are best for Martelé or rare Tiffany pieces.
Final Thoughts: Use the Good Silver
Art Nouveau was a fleeting moment in history. It lasted barely 20 years before the First World War and the machine age of Art Deco wiped it away. That makes every surviving piece a miracle.
If you own a piece of this history, honor it. Don’t lock it in a dark chest. Use the spoon for your morning yogurt. Serve cake with the poppy-covered server. Feel the weight of the silver and the texture of the vines. Life is too short for boring stainless steel. Let a little bit of 1900s magic into your Tuesday morning.
Now, go check your drawers. You might be sitting on a fortune.
Art Nouveau silverware, Unger Brothers patterns, sterling silver collecting, Gorham Martelé, antique silver value
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